Method of boring embroidery fabric



R. ZAHN, DEC'D.

A. RIETZSCH. ADMINISTRATOR.

METHOD OF BORING EMBROIDERY FABRIC.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 55. 1915.

ROBERT ZAI-IN', DECEASED, BY ALFRED RIETZSCH, ADIEINISTEATOR, PLAUEJ\T,VOG'ILAND, GERIEAETY, ASSIGNOB TO ALIEN PROPERTY CUSTODIAN.

METHOD OF BOREIIG EMBROEDEPUY FABRIC.

inoaeei.

Specification of Letters 'iatent.

Patented Jan. 1%, 1922.

Original application filed July 9, 1912, Serial No. 708,496. Divided andthis application filed March 5,

(GRANTED UNDER THE PRUVISI-JNS OF THE 5.8T MARCH 3, 1921, 41 STAT. In,1313.)

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALFRED Rinrzsorr, a subject of the German Emperorand resident of Plauen, in Vogtland, Saxony, Germany, am administratorof the estate of Ronnnr ZAHN, deceased, and that said ROBERT ZAHN hasinvented new and useful Improvements in a Method of Boring EmbroideryFabric, (for which he has filed an application in Germany, February 6,1912,) of which the annexed is a specification.

The present application is a division of original application Serial No.708,496, filed July 9, 1912, which has matured into Patent Number1,162,009 and dated Nov. 30, 1915.

As is well known, the fabric on which the embroidery is produced, isstretched taut in its frame by hooking the vertical edges thereof to theframe and fastening its horizontal edges to the fabric rollers. Allefforts notwithstanding, it has been found impossible to wind the fabricaround the rollers absolutely uniformly and without folds. Therefore thetension at the different points of the fabric surface is not uniform andwill Vary more with larger fabric surfaces. The unevenness of thetension reaches the highest degree with fabrics of the enormously largeembroidering machines as now in use.

However, the unevenness of the tension, due to non-uniform. stretching,in itself, after all would not be of Very great importance and would notmaterially affect the embroidery, if at least this unevenness wouldremain constant during the entire embroidering process. But this is notthe case. Leaving aside the fact that during lengthy periods ofinterruption of the work, as during dinner time and night time, owing tochanges of air humidity and temperature, a distortion, often to aconsiderable extent of the fabric, takes place; during the embroideringwork, too, a distortion is caused, that is to say, different points ofthe embroidery are caused to change their position relative to theneedles. And that the displacement of the fabric surface is not uniformat all parts, but is smaller here and larger there, to the left at oneplace and to the right at another, is due to the non-uniform tension ofthe fabric. It is evident, that, owing to the above named circumstances,the embroidery design not only is greatly affected in its appearance,but also is frequently damaged and even rendered entirely useless. Thisparticularly happens when distortion of the embroidery takes place atthe time when the borers are set into operation. For then the sharpedges of the borers sever the adjoining already finished parts of theembroidery design.

Moreover, the borers in themselves give rise to distortion of thefabric. When the borers, of which in some machines there are about athousand, simultaneously pierce the fabric, their sharp edges cutthe'fibres of the fabric, and it is evident that owing to the elasticityof the fibres, the tension of the fibres of the entire fabric surface isimmediately changed. But the embroidering process itself, too,particularly during the formation of so called flat stitches, gives riseto distortion of the fabric, in that the design of the work iscontracted and consequently the tension of the fabric increased. Thereis only that difference between the distortion caused during theembroidering process and the boring process, that during the latter thefibres are severed and the tension of the fabric is lessened instead ofincreased as during the former. As the lessened tension of the boredparts is not regularly compensated by the increased tension of the partsformed by the flat stitches, another cause for a variance in tension ofthe entire fabric is created.

The object of this invention is to provide a method of preventing, asmuch as possible, the tension arising during the embroidering processfrom affecting the embroidery design.

My new method consists in that th embroidering needles, which, as wellknown, are arranged in close vicinity of the borers, are caused, duringthe boring operation, to enter the fabric with their points only and notquite to their eyes and to be withdrawn simultaneously with the borersimmediately preceding the moment when the fabric frame is to bedisplaced for the formation of the next series of boreholes. Thus thefabric surface becomes so to say temporarily reinforced by the needlesat all those points where the borers could damage the same. As theneedle points engage not only the fabric but also the stitch holes ofthe rigid stitch plates, it is clear, that even a very strong lateralforce could not bring about a displacement of any part of theembroidery. Hence, as long as the borers are in action the embroiderymaintains its position owing to its reenforcement by the needle points.

In order to make my invention more clear reference is had to theaccompanying drawing in which similar characters denote correspondingparts and in which Fig. 1 diagrammatically shows a part of anembroidering machine and Fig. 2 is a detail, show ing the adjustableroller of the needle operating mechanism.

The fabric surface is denoted by reference letters w m, the embroideringneedles are denoted by 3 and the borers by 7. The latter are operated inwell known manner from a cam 8 through levers 9, 10 and a connecting rod11. The needles 3 are operated from the cam 12 through .the medium of abell crank lever 13 connected to a rod 14L which carries a roller 15co-operating with the cam 12.

' When it is desired to have the needles 3 engage the fabric with thePoints only in order to reinforce the fabric during the boring operationthe roller 15 is displaced transversely to the rod 14L to bear on thecircumference of another cam 12 so fixed on the shaft 12 that a part ofits circumference coincides with that of the cam 12. The displacement ofthe roller 15 is effected by means of a forked bell crank 16 (Fig. 2)which constantly engages the roller 15 and which may be operated by handor from the jacquard mechanism (not shown) through the medium of the rod17.

WVhat is claimed and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A method of boring embroidery fabric consisting in piercing andsimultaneously reinforcing the fabric and relieving it at the moment thefabric is to be displaced for borin at another place.

2. method of boring embroidery fabric consisting in piercing andsimultaneously stiffening the surface of the fabric and relieving thelatter at the moment it is to be displaced for boring at another place.

3. A method of boring embroidery fabric, consisting in piercing theborers through the fabric and simultaneously projecting the stitchingneedles through the fabric so as to engage the latter with their pointsonly and removing the said needles from thefabric preceding the momentthe latter is displaced for boring a new series of holes.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses.

ALFRED RIETZSCH, Administrator of the estate 0 Robert ZaJm,

deceased.

Witnesses:

ROBERT H. NIER, Josnn GRANBY.

